Tuckpointing & repointing

Tuckpointing & Repointing in St. Peters, MO

When mortar joints crumble, crack, or wash out, water gets into the wall. We remove the failing mortar and repoint the joints with a mix matched to your brick in color, strength, and texture.

What tuckpointing is, and how it differs from repointing

Repointing means removing deteriorated mortar from the joints of a brick or stone wall and replacing it with fresh mortar. Strictly speaking, tuckpointing is a finishing technique: the joint is filled with mortar colored to match the brick, and a thin line of contrasting mortar is “tucked” into it to create a crisp, narrow joint.

In everyday use (and in most quotes you’ll receive) both words mean the same job: taking out failing mortar and pointing the joints back in. On this page, “tuckpointing” covers the whole service. If your wall has a traditional tuck-and-point finish, we’ll tell you and quote it that way.

Signs your mortar joints need attention

Mortar is meant to wear out before the brick does. These are the signs it has reached that point:

Recessed or hollow joints

Mortar sitting noticeably behind the brick face, or joints you can scrape out with a key.

Cracked or crumbling mortar

Hairline cracks, sandy grit at the base of the wall, or pieces falling out.

Gaps around brick

Visible voids, especially near chimneys, window sills, and corners.

White staining

Powdery white deposits (efflorescence) mean water is moving through the wall.

Dampness inside

Stained drywall, musty smells, or peeling paint on walls behind exterior brick.

Loose bricks

Bricks that shift when pressed have lost their bond, see brick repair and replacement.

Why mortar fails on St. Peters homes

Most mortar failure comes down to water. Rain soaks into porous joints, and when temperatures swing above and below freezing, that water expands inside the mortar. Missouri winters bring many of these freeze-thaw cycles, so exposed walls, chimneys, and the tops of garden walls usually deteriorate first.

Other common causes are clogged gutters or downspouts that dump water against the wall, sprinklers hitting brick, earlier repairs done with mortar too hard for the brick, and plain age. For the weather side in more detail, see how freeze-thaw cycles damage brick and mortar.

How the tuckpointing process works

Inspect and scope

We look at the joints, the brick, and where water is coming from, then recommend spot repair, a full wall, or a whole-house repoint.

Match the mortar

Mortar type, sand, and color are selected to suit your brick. Older, softer brick gets a softer mortar.

Remove failing mortar

Joints are cut or raked out to a consistent depth (typically about two to two-and-a-half times the joint width) without widening joints or chipping brick edges.

Clean and dampen

Dust is cleared and joints are lightly misted so the brick doesn’t pull water out of the new mortar too fast.

Repoint in layers

Mortar is packed into the joints in lifts, then tooled to match the existing joint profile.

Cure and clean up

New mortar is protected from sun, rain, and frost while it cures, and the wall is cleaned of residue.

What to expect while the work is underway

Cutting out old mortar is the loud part. Grinders and chisels make noise and dust for the first stretch of each wall, then the job gets much quieter once pointing starts.

Before we cut, plants along the wall get covered, windows on that side should stay shut, and cars are best moved away from the work area. If you have pets that react to noise, plan on keeping them inside or away from that side of the house for the day.

Mortar and joint options

The right mortar isn’t the strongest one. It should be slightly softer and more flexible than the brick, so that if something has to give, it’s the joint, not the brick face.

Type N mortar

The general-purpose choice for above-grade exterior walls.

Best for: Most brick homes built in recent decades.

Type S mortar

Higher strength for below-grade work and heavier loads.

Best for: Foundations, retaining walls, site walls.

Lime-rich / Type O mortar

Softer and more breathable; protects softer brick.

Best for: Older and historic brick, see masonry restoration.

Joint profile & color

Concave, V, flush, raked, or struck joints; sand and pigment adjusted to blend with weathered mortar.

Best for: Every job. New joints look fresh at first and settle in with weathering.

Spot repairs, full walls, and chimneys

Not every wall needs repointing at once. If deterioration is limited to a chimney, a parapet, or the side of the house that takes the most weather, spot repointing is a sensible, lower-cost fix. When failing joints are spread across a wall, repointing the whole elevation gives a uniform look and avoids repeated patching.

Chimneys take the worst of the weather and are often the first place joints fail. Chimney repointing is covered with crowns and caps on our chimney repair page.

How long tuckpointing lasts

Well-executed repointing with compatible mortar typically lasts decades; commonly cited ranges run from about 20 to 30 years or more. How long yours lasts depends on exposure, drainage, and whether the underlying water problem is fixed.

Joints on sheltered walls can far outlast those on chimneys, wall caps, and surfaces hit by sprinklers or overflowing gutters.

Caring for new mortar

Fresh mortar hardens within a day or two but keeps curing for weeks. For the first month:

Keep sprinklers off the repointed wall
Don’t pressure-wash or scrub the joints
Expect the color to lighten a little as the mortar dries and cures
Tell us if you see hairline cracks or crumbling in the new joints

What affects the cost of tuckpointing

We price after seeing the wall. The main factors:

How much of the wall needs work, and its total area
Joint width and how hard the old mortar is to remove
Height and access: ladders, scaffolding, roofs, landscaping
Mortar matching, especially on older brick
Related repairs, such as replacing cracked or spalled brick
Chimney work and roof access

Keeping mortar joints in good shape

Keep gutters and downspouts clear and pointed away from brick
Adjust sprinklers so they don’t wet the wall
Walk the house each spring and look for recessed joints and cracks
Don’t pressure-wash brick. It can blast mortar out of joints
Avoid non-breathable sealers that trap moisture in the wall
Fix small failures early, before water reaches the brick behind

Related guide

Thinking about doing it yourself?

Small, low-risk patches can be a homeowner project. Our guide explains when DIY mortar repair works, and when it creates bigger problems.

Questions about tuckpointing

Is tuckpointing the same as repointing?

In most quotes, yes. Both mean replacing deteriorated mortar. Traditional tuckpointing also adds a thin contrasting line of mortar to create a crisp joint. We'll tell you which your wall has.

How do I know if my house needs tuckpointing?

If you can scrape mortar out with a key, see gaps, notice joints recessed more than about 1/4 inch behind the brick face, or find sandy grit at the base of the wall, it's time to have it looked at.

When is the best time of year for tuckpointing in Missouri?

Spring and fall. Mortar shouldn't be placed below about 40°F or when frost is expected shortly after. Summer work is fine with shading and misting to slow drying.

Will the new mortar match my old mortar?

We match color, sand texture, and joint profile as closely as possible. New mortar looks slightly fresh at first and blends in as it weathers.

Can tuckpointing stop water leaks?

It closes one of the most common water paths. If water also enters through cracked brick, failed flashing, or a chimney crown, those need attention too.

How long does a tuckpointing job take?

A single chimney is often a day or two of work. A full house can take one to several weeks, depending on its size and height, how much mortar has failed, and the weather.

Do I need a permit for tuckpointing?

Like-for-like repointing usually doesn't need a building permit. Homes in a local historic district can be different, so check with the city first if yours is in one.

Can you tuckpoint stone walls and chimneys too?

Yes. Stone joints are repointed the same way, with a mortar suited to the stone. Chimneys are one of the most common repointing jobs we see.

Why not just seal the brick instead?

A sealer doesn't fill open joints, and many sealers trap moisture inside the wall. Repoint first. A breathable water repellent can be considered afterward on very exposed walls.

Questions about tuckpointing? Call and talk to a mason.

The fastest way to get answers is a phone call. Mon to Sat, 8 AM to 6 PM · Sun, 10 AM to 2 PM

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For the quickest answer, call (669) 326-4536. Otherwise, leave your details and we’ll get back to you.

Hours
Mon to Sat, 8 AM to 6 PM
Sun, 10 AM to 2 PM

Email
info@stpetersmasonry.com